Reptiles 101: A Beginner's Guide to Happy, Healthy Reptile Care

Reptile Enclosures: A Guide to Happy, Healthy Reptile Care for Beginners

It’s a common misconception that reptiles are low-maintenance pets just because they live in terrariums. However, caring for reptiles is a considerable amount of work and requires attentiveness to both the animal and its environment. Providing the wrong environment, feed, nutrients, or substrate could be fatal. We've compiled this in-depth guide, covering reptile basics, to serve as a resource to the reptile community, so bookmark this page for future reference, and keep reading for all the fundamentals of reptile setups and care. 

1. Choosing the Right Reptile for You   

The first step for a beginner getting into reptiles is to pick a species. Bearded dragons are a good choice for beginners, as they are lower-maintenance compared with species like iguanas and chameleons, which are less forgiving when it comes to their environment. 

For instance, chameleons require a well-ventilated enclosure and high humidity, which is difficult to balance. They also require specialized UVB lighting to prevent calcium deficiencies. While they can make wonderful pets, beginners are better off starting with a more forgiving species.

Here is a list of some of the most common pet reptiles and their difficulty levels.

Beginner-Friendly Reptile Species (Basic Care Requirements)

• Leopard Gecko 
• Corn Snake
• Ball Python
• Bearded Dragon
• Crested Gecko
• Green Anole

Intermediate Species (Specific Care Requirements)

• Rainbow Boa
• Rat Snake
• Tokay Gecko
• Aquatic Turtle

Advanced Species (Extremely Specialized Setups and/or Care Requirements)

• Chameleon
• Green Iguana 
• Monitor Lizard
• Tortoises
• Caiman
• Chinese Water Dragon 

Consider Before You Commit: 

Educating yourself before committing is essential for a happy, healthy reptile. Keep these key points in mind when considering a new pet.

Lifespan

The lifespan of reptiles varies significantly among species, with some requiring a 20+ year commitment. Some species can even live over a century, so it’s important to research and be prepared for that level of commitment before adopting. 

Let’s look at the life expectancy of various common pet reptiles.

• Turtles: 10–150 years. Freshwater turtles average up to 20 years, while aquatic turtles can live 40–50 years. The Eastern Box Turtle, for instance, averages 25–50 years in captivity.
• Snakes: Ball Pythons can live 15–20 years in captivity, whereas Garter Snakes typically live 4–10 years. Some breeds can even live up to 30 years.
• Lizards: Bearded Dragons typically live 5–12 years, though they can occasionally reach 15+ years in captivity.
• Green Iguanas: Green Iguanas can live 5–15+ years, sometimes reaching 20 years or more.
• Green Anoles: the average lifespan is around 4 years, but they can live up to 8 years in captivity.
• Leopard Geckos: 20+ years, with the right conditions

Space Needs

Space requirements for reptiles vary significantly by species; it’s essential to research these needs before diving into reptile care. Additionally, each species requires different humidity levels, substrates, lighting, and construction materials. Likewise, some reptiles will need natural light and access to water features or pools. 

Pro Tip: Research the adult size of your reptile (baby reptiles grow faster than you think!) 

Temperament

Reptiles, like all pets, have varying temperaments depending on their species and individual personality. This should be an important factor when deciding which reptile to get.

Here are general temperament tendencies for some popular reptiles (keep in mind that each pet is unique, so these may not apply to every individual).

Ball Python: Extremely docile and shy. Their famous defense mechanism is to "ball" up into a tight coil, hiding their head in the middle. They are not prone to biting.

Corn Snake: Docile, curious, and gentle. They are the quintessential beginner snake. They are very reluctant to bite and are typically active and fun to watch.  

Red-Eared Slider: Active and entertaining, but not typically easy to handle. They can be skittish and may scratch or bite when threatened.

African Sulcata Tortoise: Generally docile and mellow. They can be very personable and interactive.

Tortoises (e.g., Sulcata, Aldabra): Generally docile, but not suitable as cuddly pets. They can be destructive and very powerful because of their size and strength.

Monitor Lizards (e.g., Savannah Monitor, Ackie Monitor): Intelligent, active, and powerful. Even smaller species, such as the Ackie Monitor, require confident handling. Larger species, such as Savannah and Nile Monitors, can be defensive and extremely strong.

Green Iguana: Green Iguanas are not recommended for inexperienced reptile owners. They can become aggressive and territorial during the breeding season. Their tails can deliver a powerful whip, and they have a strong bite.

Chameleons (e.g., Veiled, Panther): Chameleons are stress-prone and not easy to handle. They are solitary, arboreal display animals that generally do not enjoy interaction.

Handling Requirements 

It is essential to educate yourself on the proper way to handle reptiles. Always remain calm and support the reptile’s entire body when handling.

Some species require specialized tools, such as gloves or hooks, particularly if they are venomous or have sharp claws.

You should wash your hands before AND after handling your reptiles to protect you both. You may, unknowingly, be carrying harmful bacteria, which could make your pet ill. Likewise, reptiles can carry Salmonella, which is harmful and can even be fatal to humans. 

Finally, you'll need to use care when securing your reptiles after feeding and playtime. Some reptiles (especially some species of snakes) are very adept at sneaking out of their enclosures.

2. Setting Up the Perfect Home 

Once you've found the right reptile and have done your research, it's time to prep their enclosure. Other than an appropriate enclosure for the size and species, you'll need special equipment for heating and lighting. Depending on the species, you may need to provide humidity by adding misters, water features, humidifiers, and hygrometers.

Enclosure Types

Let's talk about enclosures. The main types are glass tanks, wooden vivariums, PVC enclosures, and screened cages. The enclosure you'll need will depend on which species of reptile you choose and their specific needs. Below, we have broken down each enclosure type by its pros and cons, and which type of animal they are best suited for. 

Glass tanks  

Best for:

• Skinks
• Turtles
• Snakes
• Bearded dragons

Benefits:

• Stylish, modern look 
• Easiest to clean and sanitize 
• Allows good visibility of the reptile
• Allows more control over heat and humidity
• Offers visual stimulation and mental enrichment by allowing the reptile to see the environment
• Many all-in-one kits are available to help reduce costs (some even have a built-in filter for aquatic turtles)
  

Cons:

• Easily damaged if made with thin or weak glass
• Prone to leakage when used long-term
• Less ventilation than other enclosure types 
• Tend to be very heavy, making moving and cleaning more difficult

Wooden vivariums

Best for:

• Chameleons
• Bearded Dragons

Benefits:

• Can help maintain humidity levels 
• Typically harder to break than glass terrariums
• Cost-effective, secure to house a wide variety of reptile species. 
• Unlike glass or screen enclosures, a wooden vivarium will hold heat well and make it far easier to reduce temperature fluctuations within households.

Cons:

• Difficult to sterilize
• Often requires quite a bit of assembly
• Can be prone to rotting if moisture is allowed to build up

PVC enclosures

Best for: Reptiles that do not need a lot of humidity, like bearded dragons, iguanas, corn snakes, ball pythons, and uromastyx

Benefits:

• Durable
• Light-weight
• Easy to clean and sanitize
• Better insulated against temperature fluctuations compared to glass

Cons:

• Limited visibility
• Can warp and discolor

Screen cages

Best for: Arboreal reptiles like chameleons, green iguanas, tree/vine dwelling snakes, geckos, anoles, abronia

Benefits:

• Lightweight
• Aids in climbing
• Allows for optimal airflow

Cons: 

• May tear
• Can become smelly
• Can take up more space than other enclosures 
• Dangerous for reptiles with specific heat and humidity requirements

Acrylic, or Plexiglass

Best for: Geckos 

Benefits:

• Easy to clean
• Sturdier than glass 
• Lighter than glass, but gives the same look

Cons:

• Scratches easily (especially when housing reptiles that like to climb)
• Transparent cages can cause the animal to feel unsafe or stressed if they do not have ample hiding spots 
• Acrylic cages often open from the top, which can make removal more stressful for the animal — we encourage you to get a front-opening enclosure to make removal feel less threatening for your pet

Racks

Best for: Multi-species households

Benefits:

• Space saving
• Utilizes vertical storage
• Often has built-in heat tape
• Limited enrichment for the animals

Cons:

• Limited visibility
• Not as aesthetically pleasing
• Limited space for the reptiles

Heating & Lighting: 

In the wild, reptiles spend their days moving between sunny and shady spots to precisely regulate their body temperature and absorb essential energy from the sun. Your job is to recreate this natural environment inside their habitat. 

Proper heating and lighting are just as important as finding the right enclosure, but like most things in the reptile world, there is no one-size-fits-all solution. 

You'll need to tailor your setup to the needs of your pet's species and monitor them closely to see if they need additional support. Here’s how you can do just that! 

UVB bulbs for species that need them 

For many reptile species (particularly diurnal lizards like bearded dragons, turtles, chameleons, and many tropical species), UVB lighting is non-negotiable.

What it is: UVB is a specific wavelength of ultraviolet light.

Why it's important: It allows reptiles to synthesize vitamin D3 and metabolize calcium. Without it, they cannot properly use the calcium from their diet, leading to Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)—a debilitating, often fatal condition that causes soft bones, deformities, and paralysis.

Choosing the right bulb: UVB bulbs come in different strengths, expressed as a percentage (e.g., 5.0, 10.0, 12.0). Desert species require a higher output (10.0-12.0) than forest-dwelling species (2.0-5.0). Always research the specific UVB requirement for your pet.

Important reminder: UVB bulbs lose their potency over time (replace every 6-12 months, even if they still emit visible light) and cannot pass through glass or plastic, so they must be installed inside the screen top or mounted inside the enclosure without obstruction.

Heating

Reptiles are ectotherms, meaning they rely on external heat sources to control their body temperature. Your primary goal is to create a temperature gradient—a warm side and a cool side—so your animal can move around to self-regulate, just as it would in nature.

1. Basking Spots: 

Make sure to set up a basking spot that offers concentrated, direct heat for your critter to bask. This spot should be significantly warmer than the rest of the enclosure. This allows the reptile to raise its core body temperature for digestion, energy, and healing. 

For this, you'll need incandescent heat bulbs or halogen bulbs placed on one end of the enclosure. What wattage you'll need will depend on the size of your tank and what species you have. Monitor the basking spot temperature with a digital thermometer to ensure you're consistently meeting your pet's needs. Be sure to place the probe directly on the basking surface (e.g., a rock or branch) to get an accurate reading.

2. Ambient Heating

Ambient heating refers to the general background temperature of the enclosure. Besides monitoring the ambient temperature, the air temperature of both the warm and cool sides needs to be monitored to ensure your reptile doesn't get too cold when it moves away from the basking site.

The basking lamp itself often provides ambient heating, but in larger enclosures or for species that need high ambient heat (like tropical snakes), supplemental heat may be needed.

Ambient heating equipment: 

Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs): Screw into a light fixture but only emit heat. Since they don't produce light, they can provide a constant heat source without disrupting the day/night cycle.

Under Tank Heaters (UTHs) / Heat Mats: These attach to the bottom or side of the glass enclosure to provide gentle, radiant heat. Remember to always use a thermostat to prevent burns.

Radiant Heat Panels (RHPs): A premium, super-safe option mounted to the ceiling of the enclosure, providing widespread, naturalistic overhead heat.

Heat Tape: Heat tape is a flexible heating element often used by advanced keepers and breeders for rack systems or multiple enclosures. It functions similarly to a heat mat but can be customized to size. 

Caution: Heat tape must be connected to a high-quality thermostat to control the temperature and prevent dangerous overheating. It is generally not recommended for beginner hobbyists.

3. Natural Sunlight & Outside enclosures

Although natural sunlight is not a requirement, studies show that just 1 to 2 hours of sunshine a week is optimal for reptile health. However, this is only for areas where outside temperatures and conditions are safe for your reptile to bask. Likewise, your pet should be in a safe enclosure and supervised to prevent escape and injury. 

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, "Just 1–2 hours per week of unfiltered natural sunlight can have dramatic, positive effects on reptiles' health, so owners should be encouraged to provide natural sunlight whenever conditions permit."

But what about outside enclosures? Can you keep your reptile outside? The Merck Vet Manual touches on this, too! It states, "In certain areas, the climate may permit keeping reptiles in outdoor enclosures, which is highly desirable, although theft, escape, predators, and wildlife carrying disease should be considered. Depending on geographical location, large tropical tortoises and crocodilians kept outside will require some form of heated house during colder periods." 

Safety

No heat source should ever be used without proper regulation.

Thermostats are essential

A thermostat is not a simple thermometer; it is a dimmer switch for your heat source. You plug the heat mat or lamp into it, place the probe in the enclosure, and set your desired temperature. The thermostat will cycle the power on and off to maintain a safe, consistent temperature, preventing burns and equipment failure. It is the most essential piece of equipment you can buy for your pet's safety.

Monitor everything

Use at least two digital thermometers (one for the warm side and one for the cool side) as well as a hygrometer to measure humidity. 

Avoid relying on analog dials, as they are often inaccurate and imprecise, which can put your pet at risk.

Sizing Guidelines

Here’s a handy chart for choosing an enclosure for your reptiles.

DOWNLOAD SIZING CHART

Humidity & why it’s important

Additional humidity isn't essential for all reptiles, but it's crucial for those that require it. For certain species, like tropical reptiles, promote healthy shedding to prevent dehydration, promote healthy shedding, and aid in the absorption and retention of heat. 

Likewise, for some species, it is essential for drinking, since they will not drink from bowls and only ingest water droplets on leaves and enclosure surfaces. The humidity level required also differs between species.

For example, arid reptiles like bearded dragons and leopard geckos require a modest humidity level of 20-30%, whereas tropical species like ball pythons and green anoles require a substantial amount of humidity (between 50-60%). Red ear sliders require even more humidity, with an optimal range of 50-75% due to their natural aquatic habitat. 

How to boost humidity

Humidity hides 

Humidity hides are a great way to provide extra humidity for your pet. They can either be store-bought or homemade (made from a plastic container) and filled with moistened substrate (like sphagnum moss). 

Choose your substrate wisely

Cypress chips, coco fiber, orchid bark, and repti-bark all absorb moisture from misting and humidifiers, and the moisture will slowly release into the air over time, helping to maintain humidity. 

Water features

Water bowls, fountains, and ponds offer more than just hydration and visual appeal to your tank! They'll also help boost the humidity of your enclosure. 

Misters & Humidifiers

There are three main types of misting systems, ranging from simple manual options to fully automated setups.

1. Manual Hand Pump Sprayers / Misting Bottles

Handpump sprayers and misters are the most budget-friendly- and user-friendly option. 

These are handheld bottles with a pump trigger that produce a fine mist. These low-tech options are ideal for those with one or two enclosures, species that require only occasional misting, or as a backup to an automated system (in case of power outages or system failures). 

However, as a stand-alone method, these can be time-consuming. They require your presence, making it challenging to maintain a consistent schedule anytime you are away or busy. Another downside to these is that the mist output and duration can be inconsistent.

2. Automated Continuous Spray Misters (e.g., "Monsoon" Systems)

Automated continuous spray misters or monsoon systems are electric systems that connect to a water reservoir (bucket or jug) with one or more nozzles to spray the enclosure(s). They’re programmed with a digital timer to mist at specific intervals and for specific durations. Monsoon systems are perfect for keepers with multiple terrariums or species with very specific or high humidity needs (e.g., chameleons, tree frogs, dart frogs). 

These can be super convenient for people with busy schedules since you can set it to automatically spray and even set the duration and frequency of mists. Once set up, it maintains a perfect schedule without your intervention, and most can even be configured to mist multiple tanks from a single pump.

That being said, these are on the more expensive side and have a more involved initial setup since you'll have to run tubing, place nozzles, and program the setup. You'll also need to connect it to a large reservoir or plumb it directly into your water source. 

3. High-Pressure Fogger / Humidifier Systems

High-pressure foggers use ultrasonic technology to create a very fine, cool fog or vapor. This fog is then pumped into the enclosure, often creating a dramatic visual effect. These are the best options for tropical reptiles that need extremely high humidity or to improve nighttime humidity without soaking the enclosure.

These machines produce the finest water particles, which adds humidity without making substrates as soggy. The foggy "jungle" look that they provide is also appealing to many reptile keepers.

Foggers are typically the most pricey option when it comes to humidity products for reptiles. They also require more frequent cleaning to prevent mineral buildup from clogging the machine. Likewise, you'll need to pair them with a hygrostate to prevent air oversaturation.

Misting Schedules

Using hygrometers

Hygrometers are vital gauges that measure the humidity and ambient temperature of your reptile enclosure, not optional. These either offer digital readings or have analog gauges, though digital is much more reliable.

Some things to look for in a hygrometer  are:

• Waterproof
• Digital readings
• Long battery life or electrically powered with a backup battery (for power outages)
• Probes to measure multiple spots within the tank
• Suction cup backing (velcro tends to break down in such a moist environment)

3. Bedding (Substrate)

Next up, research and secure the appropriate substrate for your chosen reptile. Moisture-absorbing substrates, such as sphagnum moss, are ideal for reptiles requiring higher humidity. In contrast, desert dwellers benefit from a drier substrate. Here are some things to avoid and safer alternatives.

Avoid:

• Pine/cedar (toxic oils)
• Walnut shell substrates
• Loose sand for young reptiles (impaction risk)

Safe Options: 

• Cypress
• Coconut fiber
• Reptile carpet
• Aspen shavings
• Sphagnum moss
• Paper towels (for hatchlings)
• Orchid bark (larger pieces to avoid ingestion)
• Reptile mixes (which usually combine sandy soil, coco fiber, and/or clay)
• Clean play sand for desert dwellers (ADULTS ONLY)
• Bioactive substrates (typically a combination of clay, mesh, soil, leaf litter, and plants)

*Even if your reptile doesn’t seem to eat its substrate, tiny sand particles can cling to its food and, if introduced too early, may cause impaction and other serious health issues.

Cleaning

Cleaning your reptile’s tank and substrate is essential to preventing bacteria and mold, and the health problems that come with that. It will also help to prevent odor. 

Most substrates need to be replaced weekly or biweekly. However, with proper spot cleaning, some substrates can last up to 1 or 2 months. 

4. Sleeping & Hiding Spaces 

Providing the correct sleeping and hiding spaces for your reptile will help minimize stress and ensure they have what they need for both comfort and temperature regulation. 

Many experts recommend using two identical hides, one for the cool side and one for the warm side, to prevent the reptile from favoring one over the other and disregarding its natural cues to transition between warm and cool environments as needed. 

Picking your hide:

Consider your species when shopping for hides, for instance, lizards prefer to burrow, whereas snakes need room to coil up. Some species prefer elevated hides to mimic where they would hide in their natural environment, whereas others like to stay low to the ground. Other species do better with damp vs dry hides, so be sure to research your pet’s specific needs.

New reptile habitat checklist:

✅ Research your reptile before choosing one.

✅ Buy a UVB light if your species requires it. This is crucial for preventing calcium deficiencies and metabolic bone disease in some species.

✅ Research and purchase the correct enclosure size and material for your species.

✅ Install heat lamps to meet the ambient and basking temperature needs of your chosen reptile.

✅ Get a mister or fogger if your species requires one (and a hygrometer to make sure their humidity level is correct).

✅ Purchase at least two hides (one for the cool side and one for the warm side). You may also want to get a third hide to use as a humidity hide, as well.

✅ Choose the correct substrate for your pet’s species and size. Remember to not use sand for young reptiles.

Conclusion

Reptiles are an exciting addition to any household, but it’s important to remember that they are a significant commitment that goes beyond simply placing an animal in a tank. Just because they’re a more hands-off pet doesn’t mean they don’t require a lot of upkeep.

Reptiles require meticulous attention to provide the proper environment, heating, lighting, humidity, and substrate. But with the proper research and materials, plus the devotion of your time, you’ll forge a life-long bond with your new scaled or shelled friend in no time! Be sure to bookmark this page to come back for all your reptile-related questions. 

• Need some pointers on reptile care? Head over to our reptile care companion guide.