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If you’re considering making the leap into the wonderful world of rabbits, you’ve come to the right place! Today, we're bringing together all of your rabbit questions and answers as we dive into our favorite topic, rabbits - the fluffy friends that keep us on our toes while keeping our hearts full.
We’ll discuss all things bunny, from different breeds, adoption, diet, exercise, toys, communication, traveling, safety, and everything else that keeps your bun’s world spinning.
Whether you're in need of a rabbit crash course or simply seeking some like-minded company, you've found the perfect place to be. We’re excited you’re here—let's dig into it!
A rabbit is not an “easy” pet to have. Some people make the mistake of rushing into rabbit ownership without understanding what all it entails. If you think you don’t have enough time to take care of a dog, then you probably don’t have time for a rabbit either.
A rabbit will need similar attention as a dog without the need to be let out to go to the bathroom throughout the day. For that reason, bunnies may be a better choice than a dog for those who work during the day. However, the amount of research and money that goes into giving your rabbit a healthy life is comparable to a dog. Pet rabbits live on average around eight to twelve years or more, which is a similar time commitment as a dog.
Interacting with rabbits demands greater patience compared to most dogs, particularly with young children. Unlike dogs, rabbits should not be engaged with rowdy play, requiring gentle handling and respect, which can be especially challenging for young ones to grasp.
Rabbits love to chew, tug, and dig. Without proper preparation and bunny toys, this can be destructive. It’s good to understand this before you bring them home so you aren’t shocked when accidents happen.
All of this being said, rabbits are truly amazing companions. If you have space in your home, schedule, and heart for them, leaping into the rabbit world might be perfect for you. So let’s talk more about what the rabbit world looks like!
The human-rabbit relationship started many years ago. People began keeping rabbits as pets in the 1800s. The beginning of a beautiful friendship!
Today, there are over 60 breeds of domesticated rabbits, all descending from the European wild rabbit. In 1910, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) was established as the national authority on rabbit raising and breeds.
Characteristics and temperaments vary among rabbit breeds. Dwarf rabbits are as small as 2.5 pounds while giant breeds can be around 20 pounds! There’s definitely some diversity at the extended family reunion.
Before you start meeting rabbits, it’s good to get an idea of which breed might work best with your specific family and lifestyle.
Keep in mind as we talk about temperament among different rabbit breeds, every rabbit has their own individual personality. You might find a giant rabbit who is scared of everything and an in-charge dwarf rabbit that likes to lay out in the middle of the living room.
Small breeds are often more skittish and nervous than larger breeds. They may have more energy and be less mellow. Large rabbit breeds are generally more gentle and less aggressive. This is good to keep in mind when it comes to children. While rabbits are not the best pet for young kids, older children may do better with a large breed. Still, having boundaries and rules in place to keep any pet safe around children is essential.
Large breeds will need more food and more space than smaller rabbits so it’s good to consider what you’re able to offer them as far as their enclosure goes. Although when you have a small rabbit who is high energy they will need a lot of exercise.
Different breeds have reputations of milder or more energetic temperaments. However, age also plays a role in a rabbit's temperament.
Young rabbits are more likely to chew on cords or furniture. They’ll also have more energy and curiosity with a desire to explore.
Older rabbits are more likely to lounge around and be less energetic. Of course, when you’re adopting an older rabbit you can spend some time with them and get to know them and their temperament before making it official.
Looking at all the cute rabbits is one of the most exciting parts about picking out a bun. Getting one that makes your heart melt is often a factor that plays into which rabbit you choose.
Keep in mind that long-haired rabbits need to be brushed and groomed more often which adds to your list of responsibilities as a rabbit parent. They’re more likely to get debris in their fur and it’s important to make sure they stay clean.
There are many rabbits in need of a loving home so the best place to go when you want to add a sweet bun to your family is a rescue or animal shelter. Oftentimes your local animal shelter will have information on rabbit rescues in the area or they’ll have rabbits at the shelter available for adoption.
petfinder.com is a good website to search for animals available for adoption near you. You can change the search distance to be as large as you’re willing to travel to meet the animal.
Community forums will often have animals who need to be rehomed that you could go meet! Supporting breeders can lead to irresponsible breeding and more rabbits without homes. If you choose to use a breeder make sure you do your research and have at least checked out your options for adopting.
The House Rabbit Society has a lot of helpful information on adopting rabbits!
Pet rabbits usually live anywhere from 8 years. However, this varies among breeds and other health factors. Some dwarf rabbits will commonly live up to 12 years. Other rabbits have even lived to 15 years old!
A rabbit is considered an adult once they are 12 months old but they’re full grown at just 6 months old. After they stop growing, usually around 6 months, their diet is the same as an adult rabbit’s diet.
Before you bring a rabbit home, make sure you’re fully committed to taking care of your new family member for their whole life. If you have kids who will be moving away in the next few years, make sure you’re keeping your new pet in your long-term empty-nester plans!
I know I said checking out the cute rabbits is the most exciting part of getting a rabbit but setting up your rabbit’s space is a top contender to that statement. You get to plan out all the details and then enjoy watching your new rabbit explore.
It’s a bit like decorating a room in your house. Only it’s your rabbit’s house! And the furniture is not nearly as expensive.
Before you can really get going with this interior decorating project, make sure you have a good space to work with. Keeping a rabbit in a space that is too small is inhumane. Small living space for a bun can lead to all types of behavior and health problems. Besides, if you don’t have enough space for your rabbit to move around in, then you definitely don’t have enough space for toys, activities, and the big pile of hay they will need (more on that soon!).
A single rabbit needs an enclosure that is at least 8 sq. feet. More rabbits need more space and as you can imagine the bigger the better. If you have a lot of space that you can give to your bun they will be even happier!
One way to create a large enclosure in a specific space is by using storage panels like these. That way you can have multiple levels where space allows and you can add onto an existing enclosure if you think your bun needs more space or an interesting change.
Your rabbit will also need time outside of their enclosure every day! This helps them get their zoomies out and keeps them from getting bored (more about rabbit-proofing soon!).
We talked about space, now let’s talk about the must-have items. Your rabbit’s enclosure needs to have unlimited fresh hay available 24-7. This is the most important thing that a rabbit enclosure must have as fresh hay is the most important part of their daily diet.
Let’s run through the rest of what you need for your rabbit! And of course, talk more about hay. That’s our favorite thing.
Toys are certainly a requirement. Don’t think of them as something extra, think of them as a way to create a natural environment for your rabbit.
Imagine wild rabbits, they have a whole world of vegetation and roughage to taste, pull, and chew. You can create a similar environment with toys!
The best toys are the ones that are completely safe for your rabbit to eat because regardless of how safe the toys are, your rabbit will chew on it! Plan ahead and use natural toys that are completely safe for exploring.
Sticks, logs, balls, mobiles, twists, and digging platforms are all great additions to your rabbit’s enclosure.
Rabbits are prey animals and although our domesticated rabbits don’t necessarily have to worry about predators living indoors, they do still have the instincts of a prey animal. This means they need to have plenty of safe places to run to if they feel scared or startled.
If you think about it, even us humans have safe spaces and enjoy some alone time here and there. Makes sense that our pets don’t always want to be on display!
Just make sure your pet’s hideout is large enough for them to be comfortable and that it’s a safe material if your bun wants to chew!
Minor challenges give your rabbit something to work on - something to think about!
How will I get that stick loose from the corner? How much of this hay can I get off the mobile? What’s inside this paper bag? How can I chew this ball without it rolling away from me?
Rabbits need to be physically busy but also mentally busy. There are a lot of fun options for rabbits where you can rotate them and give your bun a fun variety—there’s even rabbit puzzles to try out. How you arrange your rabbit’s living area, along with DIY toys, can contribute to your buns daily enrichment.
Attaching sticks and toys to your rabbit’s cage creates an environment closer to nature where everything is growing out of the ground. It makes it a little trickier to rearrange their setup! Putting hay or other goodies in a paper bag gives them something to explore.
Give them foraging opportunities by hiding treats around their space or in their hay. Use things like dried herbs to give them something new without adding unnecessary sugar.
Keep things new and change things up every once in a while!
Rabbits do a good job of grooming themselves! Though the cleanliness of their enclosure plays a big role in whether or not they’re able to keep themselves clean.
Keeping a rabbit’s cage clean and dry keeps your rabbit clean and dry. You do this by using proper bedding, regular deep cleanings, and spot cleaning as needed.
Most rabbits do great with a litter box! Rabbits are clean animals and they want to go potty in the same place.
Use a box large enough for them to hop in and turn around. Fill the box with a few inches of bedding and put some hay on one side. Rabbits love to eat while they poop!
If you use a litter box, you don’t need to fill the floor of their enclosure with bedding which makes bedding more affordable. Litter boxes also make it easier to keep your rabbit’s space clean!
There are several types of rabbit bedding that work well for buns. What you’re looking for is something absorbent, odor-controlling, and healthy for your rabbit to be breathing in all day. To find that, always check your labels and know who you’re buying your bedding from. At Small Pet Select we sell:
Someone who wants to compost their rabbit bedding will need to check the label and make sure it’s 100% compostable. Our White Paper Bedding isn’t 100% compostable so for people looking for compostable paper, we point them to our Brown Paper Bedding.
It’s important to only use bedding specifically made for rabbits. Clay cat litter should never be used for rabbits. Rabbits love to explore with their mouth and it’s safe to say some of their bedding will end up in their stomach. Clay cat litter is designed to expand and clump together which can be fatal as it’s likely to cause a horrible blockage in a rabbit’s stomach.
Sludge-Free
Some companies make paper-based beddings from the leftovers of reclaimed paper production. This material is called sludge and it contains dioxin which is toxic for rabbits! Make sure you’re only buying rabbit bedding that is labeled sludge-free.
Low-Dust
Rabbits are energetic curious fluff balls that put their nose in everything. They also love to kick up their heels so it’s safe to say whatever is in their bedding will also be in the air (and their noses!).
Dust in a rabbit’s airway causes irritation to their respiratory system which contributes to breathing problems.
Even paper bedding can have dust so again, always check the label so you know exactly what you’re buying!
No Artificially Scented Litters
Some people may want to cover odors with scented bedding. This is a problem if the scent is coming from chemicals. While the bedding may seem lightly scented to you, you aren’t living with it right next to your nose! Long-term exposure to chemicals from scented bedding can also irritate your buns respiratory system.
Small Pet Select sells bedding made with dried flowers which is safe for rabbits if you’re looking for a very lightly scented bedding to change things up.
How Often Should I Clean My Rabbit’s Enclosure?
When using high-quality bedding, stacked about 3 inches high in your rabbit’s litter box, it's typically recommended to change the bedding every 3-7 days. However, the frequency may vary depending on your rabbit's output and the number of litter boxes and rabbits you have.
If you wait too long, your nose will let you know. When you replace the bedding, wipe down the litter box or enclosure with a safe solution (water and vinegar work great!).
If you aren’t using a litter box then spot cleaning will increase the time needed between deep cleanings. You’ll probably find your rabbit has a favorite spot to go and you can always replace the bedding just in one area in between deep cleanings where you wipe everything down.
Okay, now we’re talking. Food is every rabbit’s favorite topic. It’s also what has possibly the biggest impact on a rabbit’s overall well-being.
A rabbit’s diet should be 80-85% hay. I know, we aren’t messing around with fiber around here. A rabbit’s digestive system needs a constant flow of fiber to keep everything moving. Pellet food and fresh food will make up the rest of their diet!
We’re diving into it all because a rabbit setup is not complete without a high-quality diet available every day.
Hay is a free-choice food! This means it should be available to your rabbit all day every day to eat to their heart's content. It’s important that this hay is fresh and clean so that your rabbit keeps circling back to it throughout the day.
Adult rabbits need low-fat and low-calcium hay like Timothy hay or Orchard grass hay. Alfalfa hay is a great choice for baby rabbits (less than 6 months old), pregnant rabbits, and nursing rabbits. The higher calcium and fat content is needed during these times of growing and increased nutritional demands.
If your rabbit is having a hard time gaining weight, alfalfa hay can be added to their usual hay to encourage eating.
Timothy hay is the most popular type of hay for adult rabbits! Some people don’t know that Timothy hay varies among different cuttings. The crop can be cut three times during one growing season so if you find yourself with a picky bun there are plenty of options for them to try out.
Each cutting creates a slightly different texture as well as nutrient profile. It’s a lot of information, we know, but don’t worry! Everything you need to know about Timothy hay can be found in our Timothy Hay Guide.
Pellet food should be considered a multivitamin or supplement to fill in the gaps. The first ingredient of your rabbit’s pellet food should always be hay. Pellets are often fortified with vitamins like vitamin D and B-12.
Make sure pellets don’t steal the show from hay though!
Rabbit pellets should make up less of a rabbit’s diet as they grow older, and hay should be available 24 hours a day. From 7 weeks - 7 months, rabbits can have unlimited access to pellets. From 7 months - 1 year, decrease rabbit food pellets to 1/2 cup per six lbs. body weight. From 1 year - 5 years, 1/4 to 1/2 cup of rabbit pellets per six lbs. body weight (depending on metabolism) is recommended.
Pellets are supposed to look boring. If you have quality pellets there won’t be any colorful dyed pieces, extra seeds or fancy additions.
This is where your rabbit's food gets even more interesting. Fresh foods are colorful as well as tasty. They also bring some new textures for your rabbit to explore. Usually, rabbits love to eat their fresh food. It’s up to you to give them the right kind of fresh food!
Around 2 cups of low-sugar leafy greens a day is a great addition to your rabbit’s diet. Just make sure you’re feeding a variety of greens so they don’t get an overdose of any one nutrient. This also eliminates fears that they’ll get too many oxalates which can contribute to bladder and kidney issues.
We’ll talk about high-sugar vegetables and fruits in a moment. As far as a rabbit’s day-to-day diet goes, stick to leafy greens!
Vegetables For Your Rabbit To Try
Non-leafy green vegetables should be used more sparingly as a fun treat. For this reason, we are putting them on the list with fruits. These foods work great as an occasional treat when fed in small pieces.
Think bite-sized pieces for a rabbit or not much larger than your thumb. What seems small to you is quite large for a little rabbit!
Rabbits certainly have a sweet tooth just make sure you’re being a responsible paw parent and keeping their sweet foods as occasional treats!
While it’s obvious you shouldn’t be feeding your rabbit lasagna or candy, there are also some foods that are fresh, raw, and healthy for you to eat but toxic for your bun! So let’s look at those and then run through a few more foods to keep away from your rabbit.
Keep your bunny healthy by avoiding fatty and processed foods. Skip the nuts, seeds, and any processed snacks. Also, steer clear of anything with dairy in it. Store-bought treats like yogurt drops often have dairy and added sugars, which aren't good for your furry friend. Stick to fresh, natural foods to keep your bunny happy and thriving!
Our list of fruits is a great place to start when you’re looking for a simple treat for your rabbit. However, there are actually some natural treats with even less sugar that you can treat your rabbit with.
Hay treats take the food your rabbit’s digestive system loves (hay) and turns it into a new texture. Hay Cubes are just that, hay pressed into cubes. Healthy Snackers are hay treats that have a touch of dried fruit added to give your rabbit that sweet flavor they love while also giving them high-fiber hay that keeps their stomachs happy.
They're nutritious and delicious. It's a win-win!
It’s important to be well-educated when it comes to rabbit health issues so you can take the proper steps for prevention. You can’t do better until you know better! So let’s look at what we’re up against.
G.I. Stasis is one of the most common illnesses in rabbits. This is where the digestive system slows down or completely stops. When food isn’t passing through the G.I. tract properly, your rabbit will become bloated which makes them less likely to eat. This makes it harder for their digestive system to kick back into gear.
G.I. Stasis is very dangerous for rabbits and requires immediate medical attention. It cannot be stressed enough, if your rabbit shows any signs of G.I. Stasis you need to take them to an exotic vet as soon as possible.
G.I. Stasis can be caused by something foreign (something a rabbit should not have swallowed) blocking the digestive tract but it is often a secondary condition. Usually, a rabbit has another condition that causes pain or causes them to eat less which starts the downward spiral of their digestive system slowing down.
For example, if their diet causes an overgrowth of bad bacteria, a rabbit will experience pain and bloating which leads to them eating less. If a rabbit has overgrown teeth they will experience mouth pain which leads to them eating less.
Preventing G.I. Stasis comes down to feeding a proper diet as well as preventing any primary health conditions from occurring that would make a rabbit uncomfortable enough to lose their appetite.
Fiber is what a rabbit's digestive system needs to keep everything moving. Lots of fiber. The best way for a rabbit to get their fill of fiber is by eating lots of hay.
As parents, it's your job to make sure your rabbit has unlimited amounts of fresh hay that they want to eat. No broken-up and dusty piles of hay will do. You need high-quality tasty hay with a texture they love.
An important rabbit chore is to chew enough to keep their teeth worn down. A daily chore! Chewing roughage stops a rabbit’s teeth from becoming overgrown and painful. Did you know a rabbit’s teeth are always growing?
When a rabbit’s teeth get too long they are painful! They will start to curve and may stick out through their lips. Their teeth can also grow into their gums and cause infections. Once a rabbit starts having mouth pain, they will eat less, which then causes their teeth to be more overgrown.
Similar to G.I. Stasis, this is a condition that continues to get worse due to the symptoms. If you suspect your rabbit’s teeth are overgrown, you should immediately get them checked out with an exotic vet.
The only way to prevent overgrown teeth is to chew! As we said before, it’s your job to supply high-quality hay that your bun wants to eat. This can take some trial and error if you have a picky bun but it's worth it when you find the hay your rabbit loves eating.
Having natural chew toys can also help keep your rabbit’s teeth worn down. It helps fill your bun’s natural instinct to chew, chew, chew! They’re really fun too.
While parasites certainly aren’t the glamorous part of owning a rabbit, they’re something you should know about. With proper prevention, it’s likely you’ll keep your real-life experience with them to a minimum. There are a number of parasites that rabbits can become infected with:
Indoor rabbits are less susceptible to parasites however it’s important to consider the rabbits your rabbit is meeting! When you introduce your rabbit to another bun, consider what that rabbit has been exposed to. If you don’t know the rabbit’s history or if they are free of parasites then it’s best to keep the rabbits separated.
There are gels and sprays that can help prevent parasites like lice, mites, fleas, ticks, and flystrike. These natural remedies come in handy if you have an animal susceptible to these parasites. Some users have found these products help rid their pets of pests once they already have them!
You can read details and reviews of Pestavert Gel and Spray here.
Heat stroke happens when a rabbit loses control of the temperature of their body. A rabbit can’t sweat like us humans do! It’s very important that you don’t leave your rabbit in the heat or anywhere without ventilation.
The ideal temperature for a rabbit is between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They can tolerate up to 85 degrees but anything above that puts them at risk for heat stroke.
If your rabbit is showing any signs of heat stroke take them to a cool room immediately and get them to an exotic vet as soon as possible.
It’s important to have a rabbit-savvy exotic vet picked out long before you have a sick rabbit. When a rabbit gets sick, they can spiral downward fast as we explained with G.I. Stasis. Lots of primary conditions can lead to a slow digestive system which puts your rabbit in serious trouble.
When you have any concerns about your rabbit’s health, contact your vet immediately. When looking for a vet, check your local listings for an “exotic” veterinarian. These veterinarians usually specialize in rabbits and other small animals.
You can also call a veterinarian who isn’t labeled as exotic and ask who they refer their serious rabbit cases to. Check with multiple veterinarians and see if there is a common person that you hear suggested more. That might be your best option!
Rabbits are very clean animals. They do a lot of their grooming themselves. Still, there’s definitely a routine that needs to be kept up to ensure proper hygiene and to keep our buns healthy! Grooming is also a great bonding time.
Depending on your rabbit’s breed, brushing may be a larger part of your routine. For example, a Lion Head rabbit will need more brushing than a Rex rabbit. The goal when brushing your rabbit is to keep their hair free of tangles, matting, debris, and loose fur.
Loose fur can get ingested as a rabbit licks themselves (or each other). This can cause a blockage in their digestive system! You definitely want to make sure you get the loose fur off.
Consider brushing your rabbit every few days but again, this depends on your rabbit's breed as well as if they’re doing any extra shedding. Angora rabbits need daily brushing while some rabbits don’t have much fur to brush in general.
The Hair Buster Comb is a good option as it’s made specifically for small animals.
As you pet your rabbit each day, you will get an idea of how much loose fur they have!
Nail Trimming
Check your rabbit’s nails once a week. It’s best to trim off small amounts at a time to keep the quick of the nail short. The quick is the vein and nerve that runs up a rabbit's nail. You must be careful not to clip this part of the nail as it will bleed. Keeping the nail beyond this portion short is the best way to keep your rabbit's nails healthy and not overgrown.
If your rabbit has dark nails, you may need to use a flashlight to see where the nail quick is to make sure you’re not hitting it!
Washing
A rabbit shouldn’t have a bath where they’re sitting in water. Wet fur can cause hypothermia and it’s really not needed! As we said, rabbits are clean animals and do their washing themselves.
However, sometimes a rabbit needs a little extra help, especially in the hard-to-reach places. If their bum gets soft poop on it they will need help cleaning up. This can be done with a damp washcloth.
Also, be careful not to get water into a rabbit’s ear as this can cause an ear infection. You want to always keep your rabbit as dry as possible. Skin infections can be a result of their skin not staying dry.
If you have any concerns about keeping your rabbit clean and dry, an exotic vet can help you with your specific situation.
Pets quickly become your best friends. You learn all about what they like and don’t like and what they do when they’re telling you about these things! Let’s talk a bit about how rabbits communicate with us humans as well as other rabbits and then we’ll get into how to make these relationships the best that they can be!
You may think of rabbits as quiet animals, but they actually have a lot to say. You just need to pay attention! Understanding rabbit sounds helps you respect your animal and provide them with a comfortable environment. Comfortable environments are the best place for a rabbit to make friends!
Grunting
Grunting is a rabbit's way of saying I need some space. You may hear your rabbit grunt when they are stressed, angry, or overcrowded. However, grunting can also mean they’re very excited. Especially when it comes with a honking noise. We’ll talk more about body language soon but always look for context and what's going on when you hear your rabbit grunting.
Teeth Grinding
Rabbits can grind their teeth for different reasons. Soft grinding could even mean your bun is happy (similar to a cat purring!). However, loud frequent grinding can signal that your rabbit is in pain or uncomfortable. Especially when combined with a hunched position. If you suspect your rabbit is grinding their teeth because they aren’t feeling well, get them checked out with an exotic vet as soon as possible.
The more time you spend with your rabbit the more you will learn about their individual communication methods. While we explain how rabbits communicate, keep in mind that every rabbit is different. Some may thump all the time while others rarely do! Learn the basics and then become an expert on your individual bun!
Thumping
Thumping means danger danger! Or at least that your rabbit thinks there is danger around! Wild rabbits thump to warn each other when predators might be around. Thumping on the ground can be heard by rabbits in burrows underground. Quite a nice system if you ask me!
Domestic rabbits may thump when strangers are around that they’re uncomfortable with. Similarly, if there are other pets around that they are uncomfortable with! When your rabbit thumps this is your sign to help them get out of a stressful situation or remove the stressor from where they are.
Some rabbits thump when they hear dishes bang or sounds from the T.V. Just be aware that they are uncomfortable and check if there is anything that needs to be done about it! Make sure that your rabbit's enclosure is in a quieter area of the house so that they can relax when they need to.
Honking
A honking noise will sometimes come from an excited bun! This means they are excited about what they are doing or what they see.
Nudge
Rabbits explore their world with their noses. They can communicate with their noses too! Rabbits will often nudge to say, “Hey what are you doing in my space?” They may also nudge to say “Hey! I want something!” Either way, they’re trying to get your attention so look at your bun and gather what they need using context clues and some of the other behaviors on our list.
Binky
Rabbits are famous for their binkies. This is because there are few things as cute as a rabbit binkying. Binkying looks a bit like the rabbit version of a leprechaun leaping into the air with a kick to the side.
It really is similar to the way you feel when you suddenly want to dance! They are happy! It looks like a running start with a quick leap or a big burst of energy just poured out of them.
Kicking Their Feet Behind Them
This is different from binkying but it sounds similar! When a bun kicks their feet up behind them they are actually saying they are irritated. This looks like them trying to get away from something and you can imagine them kicking some dirt up at something that is annoying them. Less energy and much less happiness than a binky.
Flopping
Sometimes rabbits very quickly roll over to their side. This means they are content and comfortable. Consider it like flopping onto your bed when you feel comfortable at home.
Chinning
Chinning is when a rabbit seems to rub their chin on you or objects around them. It’s actually a way to claim things as theirs. They are rubbing their scent on things and sometimes you! It’s cute if you think about it!
So when you see your rabbit chinning around their environment they are just marking their possessions and saying, “Mine!”.
When you have multiple bonded rabbits they may chin the same objects but they accept each other and it’s a shared experience of setting up their personal space. However, rabbits who aren’t bonded may chin more to cover up the smell of the other rabbit.
Licking
Licking is the way rabbits groom each other. It’s a sign that they’re comfortable and are bonding. It also shows affection for you when your rabbit licks you!
If you haven't read the previous sections about rabbit sounds and body language, go back and do that before you dive into bonding rabbits. It’s important that you understand as much as you can about how your rabbit is feeling and what they’re trying to tell you so that bonding can happen successfully!
Bonding rabbits is harder than one might think. The key is to go slow and take your time. There are however a few scenarios that are easier to handle than others:
In both of these scenarios (especially the second) you still want to take the proper steps and precautions as you introduce them to their new home, however, it’s likely to be an easier process.
Don’t start the bonding process with any rabbits who aren’t at least two weeks out from their spay/neuter surgery. You don’t want any accidental breeding and you don’t want to be dealing with any extra stress (pain from surgery) when trying to make rabbits comfortable with each other.
Step 1: Separate Cages
When you first put two rabbits together, you need to have a barrier between them. Yes, when I said you need to move slowly, I meant it!
Keep their cages close enough that they can see and smell each other. This makes them an acquaintance rather than a stranger which is a good place to start. They each have their own personal space and they’re less likely to feel threatened.
Put their pile of hay closest to the other cage. Let the rabbits meet over food!
How long this step should take depends on the rabbits. Some rabbits honestly meet and it’s love at first sight. Others have a hard time with steps 2 and 3 and need to return to this first phase. There’s no rush really, keeping this set up for weeks is just fine!
Step 2: Meet on Neutral Ground
When you decide to let the two rabbits meet face to face without any barriers the important thing to remember is to keep this on neutral ground. This means, hold the meeting in a place that neither rabbit claims as theirs.
If both rabbits are new to your house then the whole house is neutral ground. If you had one rabbit first then it may be trickier to find neutral ground. Some ideas are putting up a pen in the backyard, using the bathtub, or a bedroom neither rabbit has been in.
Be prepared to break up a fight. It’s hard to imagine these cute buns fighting but trust me they can surprise you. Wear a glove so you can break them up without getting bit if needed.
Step 3: Create Positive Associations
During the meetings, provide plenty of positive associations. These can even act as distractions! Use treats and toys to give your rabbits something to get excited about and take their mind off the new stranger.
Pet both rabbits to show them that there is plenty of love to go around and that everything is just fine.
Step 4: Create a Shared Personal Space
Don’t move onto this step until you see some of these signs of bonding:
Once you see your rabbits have become friends you can create an enclosure for them to share. Make sure their space is large enough. Two rabbits need at least 12 square feet of space with daily time outside of their enclosure as well.
Rabbits are happier to share their space when there is enough of it!
When you first bring home your sweet bun, they have a lot of adjusting, exploring, and settling in to do. They also might be overwhelmed and feel stressed. When it comes to bonding with a rabbit you should let them take the lead. Let them come to you!
Make Yourself Familiar in a Non-Threatening Way
Bonding starts with just getting used to seeing each other. Spend time sitting and talking with your rabbit without the added stress of picking them up or moving them around. Let your rabbit smell you and learn that you aren’t threatening.
Create Positive Associations
There’s nothing wrong with being known as the person with the treats. When a rabbit comes to see you and you have a treat, you become a favorite person very fast! Have toys and treats ready to show your bun that you’re fun and that you take care of them.
Be Consistent With Your Routine
Creating routine and consistency with your rabbit helps them to feel safe and taken care of. If you spend all day with your rabbit and then miss out on bonding sessions for the next week your rabbit won’t see you as something they can count on.
Dedicate time in your schedule to spend with your rabbit. Maybe unwind after work with your bun at the same time every day! Your rabbit will love it and you’ll also have the opportunity to make sure everything with your rabbit and their enclosure is okay.
Rabbits need time outside of their enclosure every day! Might as well make it fun with you too.
If you haven’t read the previous section about rabbit sounds and body language make sure you do. Knowing how your rabbit is feeling and respecting that is essential to bonding with your rabbit!
There’s a lot that rabbits can learn to do and become comfortable with. However, keep in mind that all rabbits are different and there’s nothing wrong with a rabbit that would rather sit next to you than sit in your lap.
It’s your job to make sure your rabbit is respected with any handling or training. You can work with your rabbit to get them more comfortable sitting in your lap or coming when you call but you can’t force them to do it.
Holding A Rabbit Safely
Rabbits can be startled easily which means it’s important that you’re only holding a calm rabbit so they don’t accidentally get hurt. They could jump out of your arms or even kick their hind legs so hard they break their own back!
When you pick up a rabbit you must always support their hind legs. This prevents them from getting injured with big kicks. Keep the rabbit right up against your body. This will help them to feel safe and secure.
When you’re first bonding with your rabbit, just sit on the floor with them. Hold them in your lap while sitting or allow them to hop on and off your lap. This is the first step to getting them comfortable with being held by you. Using a calm voice helps too!
Never grab a rabbit by the ears or the scruff of their neck. They should always be supported from the bottom!
Like most of us, rabbits love treats. Treats are very motivating. Occasionally you may have a rabbit that is less motivated by treats. In that case, they may be motivated by you petting them and using a loving voice.
The most common thing parents like to teach their rabbits is to come when they’re called. Using treats as a reward system helps them to pick up on this rather quickly!
Make sure you never teach your rabbit to do any tricks that aren’t safe for them. Don’t hold treats over their head until they fall backward onto their back. This can hurt them! Don’t teach them to go outside of their natural movements and usual ways of exploring.
Some rabbits can learn to go back to their enclosure when they’re told. They can learn to run through an obstacle course of tunnels and ramps. Have fun with your bun! Just make sure they’re having fun too and if you have a rabbit that would rather sit next to you and hang out then there’s nothing wrong with that.
Rabbits reproduce very quickly when you have unneutered and unspayed rabbits. Breed like rabbits? That saying has a lot of truth behind it!
This is why it’s very important to get your pets spayed and neutered. There are many rabbits who need homes and breeding rabbits takes away homes from those rabbits who really need them!
Rabbits are usually only pregnant for about a month (30-33 days). By the time you realize you have a pregnant rabbit on your hands, those baby rabbits (kits) are coming soon!
Pregnant rabbits need to have their health monitored and extra precautions need to be taken to ensure that they’re comfortable and not in a stressful environment.
A pregnant rabbit may be more aggressive than usual or easily irritated. You may notice her building a nest when the kits are almost here! This will look like her gathering hay or pulling some of her fur out to use for the nest.
When The Baby Rabbits Come
As mentioned, baby rabbits are called kits short for kittens! When the new kits arrive they should stay in their warm nest and you should do your best to keep their environment quiet and stress-free.
The babies will keep each other warm in a fur-lined nest. It’s best to remove the father from the mother and babies. The mother can get pregnant again very quickly! This is a good time to get the male rabbit neutered.
It’s normal for a mother rabbit to spend her day watching over the nest but not laying in it with them. This is common for wild rabbits and domestic rabbits have a lot of those same natural instincts!
If the mother has not made a nest and the babies are scattered then it’s extremely important to help her make a nest and get the babies together so they can stay warm. An exotic vet can help you with the details and best practices for your specific situation!
Feeding Baby Rabbits
A baby rabbit should have a full and distended belly if it’s fed properly. If the rabbits have sunken tummies, wrinkled skin, and seem weak and dehydrated then they need help from an exotic vet right away.
Keep in mind, for the first day after the babies are born, it’s best to let them be if the babies are gathered in a nest. The mother may wait till the end of the day to feed the kits.
For the first three weeks of a rabbit’s life, they should only have their mother’s milk. From 3-7 weeks they can have some access to alfalfa hay and alfalfa pellets while still nursing from their mother. At 7 weeks they should have constant access to alfalfa hay and pellets and they can be weaned when they’re 8 weeks.
From the time a rabbit is weaned until they are 6 months old, they need access to alfalfa hay 24/7 and a “junior” or alfalfa-based pellet.
From 6 months on they should be fed low-fat, low-calcium hay like Timothy hay or Orchard grass hay.
Rabbits are curious! They will get into whatever they can. Taste whatever they can! The world is a fun place for a little bun. As rabbit parents, it’s up to us to keep them safe. And similar to a human toddler, they have a mind of their own! So the best way to keep them safe is by staying one step ahead of them and rabbit-proofing their environment.
Your house is no longer a human house. It’s now a house where humans and rabbits live together in harmony! That being said, the first thing you want to cover is cords. For your sake and your rabbit’s! They could get an electric shock from chewing the TV cord and you might be in for a shock when you see your phone charger has been chewed through.
You can arrange furniture so that cords aren’t exposed or cover them using cord covers. Cords look a lot like a vine and they’re just the perfect size and texture for a rabbit to grab.
The next thing to consider is the carpet. Rabbits love to dig and they love to tug. High-pile carpet might be especially tempting. You can lay tile or a plastic office chair mat over the corners of the carpet. The corner is usually where they try to pull things up first. If you have a big digger though you might need to use baby gates and keep them in a carpet-free space such as the kitchen.
Rabbits may want to chew on the corners of wood furniture. This is another spot where you will need to get some corner protectors or move wooden furniture out of your rabbit’s space.
All rabbits are different. You may spend a lot of time rabbit-proofing just to find your rabbit lays in the sun all day. When you bring home a new rabbit follow them around closely. Get down on your hands and knees. See the world through your rabbit’s eyes! In the first week, you will find what needs to be taken care of.
But really though, cover those cords.
Traveling With Your Rabbit
If you’re planning a vacation, definitely consider having someone you trust pet-sit your rabbits for you. It’s best if they can stay where they’re comfortable. They will miss you but they’ll be okay!
You can also look for a rabbit-friendly boarding facility. This can stress a rabbit with a change of routine and environment but you can be sure that they’re safe and you won’t have to worry about them as you take your trip.
If you don’t have someone who can take care of them at your house, and you think taking them with you will be less stressful than a boarding facility then here are some traveling tips!
Rabbits are unique! There isn’t a one-size-fits-all guide for everything rabbits. Learning as much as you can about these sweet animals will help you recognize the individual needs of your pet and give them the best life possible!
An exotic vet can help you work through individual circumstances and challenges. Make sure you have an exotic vet picked out near you before you ever need one! An emergency is not the time to be reading reviews looking for a rabbit-savvy vet.
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