- Small pets need more than a basic cage and food; a healthy setup should include safe housing, clean bedding, fresh water, hiding places, enrichment, and species-appropriate nutrition.
- Rabbits, guinea pigs, and chinchillas rely heavily on unlimited fresh hay to support digestion, dental health, and natural foraging behaviour.
- Bedding should be absorbent, dust-free, non-toxic, fragrance-free, and suited to the specific animal, with unsafe options like cedar shavings, sawdust, clay litter, and fluffy cotton bedding avoided.
- Each species has different habitat needs: rabbits need room to roam, guinea pigs need generous floor space and companionship, chinchillas need tall climbing areas, and hamsters need deep bedding for burrowing.
- Enrichment is essential for small pets because it supports natural behaviours like chewing, digging, hiding, foraging, exploring, climbing, and running, helping reduce boredom and stress.
Small pets bring lots of joy into a home. Whether you choose rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas, or hamsters, making sure they have the right supplies and setup is one of the best ways to keep them happy, healthy, and thriving.
Not all pet products are created with your small pet’s health and natural behaviors in mind.
The right habitat, bedding, food, enrichment, and grooming tools can make a huge difference in helping them feel safe and stay healthy.
In this guide, we’ll walk through the essential supplies these small pets need so you can confidently choose products that truly support their well-being. We’ll start with the basics small pets share, then take a closer look at the specific needs of rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas, and hamsters.

What All Small Pets Need to Thrive:
1. A Suitable, Safe Space or Habitat
One of the most common mistakes that well-meaning pet parents make is not providing their small pets with enough space to roam. In every situation, providing more room is the best approach, as many pet store cages fail to offer the space that small pets truly require.
Safety is another concern. It's no secret that small pets love to chew, but not all enclosures are designed with that in mind. Unsafe materials can lead to injuries or even escape attempts.
Good airflow is also essential. Proper ventilation helps prevent respiratory issues and reduces the risk of mold and bacteria building up in your pet’s space.
Lastly, avoid wire flooring. Rabbits, guinea pigs, chinchillas, and hamsters are all prone to bumblefoot, a painful condition often caused by wire bottoms.
2. Safe, Clean Bedding

Small pets need bedding for different reasons like sleeping, burrowing, or soaking up urine. The best types and amounts of bedding vary a bit by animal, but some things remain the same.
What to look for:
- Absorbency: Wet environments breed bacteria and mold, which can lead to illness and skin infections.
- Odor control: Good bedding helps manage odors without relying on artificial fragrances.
- Safety: Bedding materials should be non-toxic and safe if accidentally ingested.
- Environmental impact: Look for products that are partially or fully biodegradable.
When choosing bedding for any type of small pet, make sure it meets these criteria:
- Dust free: Dust particles from wood or paper bedding can hurt your small pet’s respiratory system.
- Sludge free: Some paper bedding is made from sludge, which is the name for the leftovers at paper plants. Sludge contains a toxin called dioxin.
- Kiln dried (wood bedding)
- No artificial colors or scents: While these may smell good or look pretty, artificial colors and scents are made from chemicals that may be harmful to your small pet.
Always select bedding that’s appropriate for your pet’s species and individual needs. It’s also recommended to avoid:
- Cedar shavings
- Clay litters
- Sawdust
- Cotton or “fluffy” bedding
3. Unlimited Fresh Hay, Daily
As herbivores (plant eaters), rabbit, guinea pigs, and chinchillas primarily eat one type of very important plant: hay.
Timothy hay serves as an exceptional dietary staple for these three species. It delivers the essential fiber they need to maintain a healthy digestive tract. As a key part of digestion, hay helps form cecotropes, nutrient-dense droppings that are re-ingested to support complete nutritional balance.
Hay also plays an important role in keeping their continuously growing teeth worn down and provides natural enrichment to keep them mentally engaged. For small herbivores, hay truly is a staple food and should make up the foundation of their diet.
4. A Safe Place to Hide
As prey animals, these little furballs naturally feel safer when they have a place to retreat to, a hidey-home. Every habitat should include at least one hide per pet.

Your pet’s hidey-home should:
- Be large enough for your pet to turn around comfortably
- Be made from chew-safe materials, like kiln-dried wood, grass, or sticks.
- Include an additional opening or ventilation for proper airflow
5. Enrichment
Your small pet may be domesticated, but their wild instincts are still strong. They thrive when given opportunities to chew, dig, forage, explore, and play. Enrichment not only prevents boredom and stress, but also supports their overall physical and mental well-being.
6. Constant Access to Fresh Water
Water can be offered in a heavy, tip-resistant bowl or a water bottle, depending on your pet’s preference and setup. However, bowls are generally recommended, as bottles can leak, malfunction, and are more prone to mold and bacteria buildup. Either source you choose, remember to wash it out daily to remove bacteria and keep your little one’s water fresh and safe.
With common needs in mind, let’s hop into the specific needs for each small pet.
Species-Specific Small Pet Needs

Rabbits
Rabbits are curious, social animals with big personalities and even bigger needs when it comes to space, diet, and enrichment.
Habitat
An important consideration when getting a pet rabbit is where you are going to keep your bun, and whether you have enough space. First, we highly recommend keeping your bunny indoors and only allowing your pet outdoors for enrichment, in an x-pen or safely fenced area, under full supervision.
Outdoor rabbits are highly susceptible to weather changes, predators, and escaping. (They’re excellent diggers!).
The best indoor setup is one where your rabbit can roam freely. Whether they have access to your home, a room, or a large sectioned area, giving them space to move around safely and freely supports their overall well-being.
Rabbits are enthusiastic chewers, so your rabbit’s space and any areas of access will need to be bunny proofed. This means properly rabbit-proofing your space by removing potential hazards, securing wires and outlets, and protecting walls, furniture, and flooring from chewing.

If free roaming full time isn’t an option, a secure exercise pen can provide a safe and spacious alternative. Aim for at least 8 square feet per rabbit, though larger setups are strongly recommended to support natural movement and activity.
Rabbits should never be confined to traditional pet store cages, but these can serve as a safe space or home base if the door is left open. Similarly, multi-level enclosures are not appropriate as primary housing, but can be used for enrichment if they are stable and designed to prevent falls or injury.
Bedding
Rabbits need a designated litter box as part of their setup (yes, they can absolutely be potty trained!). The litter box is where bedding plays an important role, helping to absorb urine and control odor. Rabbit urine is quite strong and, if not properly managed, can even irritate or scald their sensitive feet, ouch!
Be sure to fill the litter box with at least 2–3 inches of safe, absorbent bedding to keep your rabbit comfortable and their space clean.
Safe bedding options for rabbits include:
- Soft paper bedding
- Heat-treated Aspen Shavings
- Pelleted bedding: Paper Pellets, kiln-dried Pine pellets, and Hemp Pellets are all safe choices for rabbits and are great at absorbing urine.
- Hemp Hurd bedding – It’s up to five times as absorbent as pine shavings.
- Absorbent pads - often used to line the litter tray
Pro Tip: For a setup that is kind to your rabbit's paws, try layering paper bedding over a base of pellets.

Diet
Hay
Hay is the most important part of your rabbit’s diet. It provides the fiber needed to keep their digestive system moving and helps wear down their constantly growing teeth. Timothy hay is usually the best staple hay because it is high in fiber and relatively low in calcium.
Rabbits should have unlimited access to fresh hay at all times. Premium quality hay should make up at least 85% of your bunny’s daily diet.
Pellets
Rabbit pellets can provide additional vitamins and minerals but should only make up, at most, 5% of a rabbit’s diet. Too many pellets can discourage hay eating and may contribute to health issues.
When choosing pellets:
- The first ingredient should be timothy hay
- Avoid fillers such as corn or seeds
- Avoid dyes and artificial coloring
Leafy Greens
While it may be hard to get your children to eat their greens, rabbits love them! In fact, they can have around one cup of leafy greens per two pounds of bunny every single day.
To ensure your rabbit receives a balanced range of nutrients and to avoid the health risks associated with excessive calcium, it is essential to rotate their green leafy vegetables frequently. High-oxalate options, such as radish tops, parsley, beet greens, Swiss chard, mustard greens, and spinach, should only be provided in limited quantities.
Treats
Like with humans, treats really should be saved for special occasions, which includes enrichment and bonding time. Hand feeding your bun a treat is a wonderful way to bond.
For your bun, treats can include rabbit-safe vegetables, small amounts of fruits, or herbs, as well as some healthy bunny treats. However, watch out for treats with artificial ingredients, sugar, dairy, or dyes.

Enrichment
Rabbits are naturally active and curious. Enrichment toys help keep their minds, bodies, and teeth active, which reduces stress and improves overall health. Focus on natural behaviors like chewing, foraging, digging, and playing.
Plenty of enrichment toys are available on the market, and you can also create your own. Just keep some things in mind:
- Prioritize safety by choosing toys made from natural, chew-safe, digestible materials like hay, grasses, twigs, and untreated wood.
- Consider the toy’s durability. Did we mention rabbits love to chew? Durable toys not only last longer, but can also help grind your rabbit’s always-growing teeth.
- Offer a variety to see what your rabbit likes best. For instance, some buns love to chase a willow ball across the floor when it’s thrown. Others may simply want to chew on it.
- Turn meals and snacks into enrichment. Placing your bunny’s hay inside an edible ball or tube can make munching more fun. Hide herbs in wooden puzzles and let them seek out the treasure. (Our hay and foraging mixes come in edible boxes for this very reason!)

Grooming
Rabbits don’t typically require regular visits to a professional groomer, as much of their grooming can often be managed at home.
Brushes: Many rabbits benefit from regular brushing, often around once a week. This can help reduce matting, remove loose fur, and support overall coat and skin health. Since rabbits groom themselves, reducing loose fur may also lower the amount they ingest. Some rabbits take time to get used to brushing, so starting gently can make the process easier. There are a variety of tools available, and some rabbits respond well to options like a gentle comb.
Nail Trimmers: A rabbit’s nails grow continuously and may need trimming from time to time to keep them comfortable. This is often done every 4–6 weeks, though it can vary. When trimming, it’s important to be mindful of the quick (the sensitive part of the nail). Using good lighting, or even a small torch, can help make this easier to see. If trimming at home feels challenging, a rabbit-savvy vet may be able to help.
Flea Protection: Even indoor rabbits can occasionally experience skin irritation. If you notice increased scratching or flaky skin, it could be worth looking into possible causes like mites or fleas. Care should be taken when choosing any preventative, as not all products are suitable for rabbits. A vet can help guide you toward safe options if needed.
Hop over to our rabbit grooming guide to learn more.
Guinea Pigs
Guinea pigs are social, curious little animals with big personalities and very important needs when it comes to hay, space, and enrichment. Here’s what you’ll need to get started.
Habitat
Guinea pigs generally do best when bonded in pairs or small groups. Two guinea pigs should have at least 10 square feet of floor space, with additional room added for each additional piggy.
Guinea pigs are not natural climbers, so their habitats are often designed with easy, safe movement in mind. Multi-level setups can be used, provided ramps are wide, stable, and have gentle slopes to help reduce the risk of slips or falls.
Guinea pigs may also enjoy time outdoors when the weather is mild (around 65–75°F is often comfortable), but only in a shaded, escape-proof enclosure and with full supervision.
Bedding
Guinea pigs can sometimes be partially litter trained, but it’s usually not as reliable as it is with rabbits. Many guinea pigs naturally choose one or two favourite spots to go, which can make it easier to place a litter tray in those areas and encourage more consistent use.
Adding hay to the litter area can help, as guinea pigs often like to eat and go to the toilet at the same time. Keeping the rest of the enclosure clean may also encourage them to return to the same spot.
That said, most guinea pigs won’t use a litter box all the time, so it’s best to think of it as a way to help manage the mess rather than eliminate it completely.
Good bedding options include:
- Soft paper bedding
- Heat-treated aspen shavings
- Paper pellets, pine pellets (under soft bedding), or hemp pellets
- Corn cob bedding
Bedding should be spot cleaned daily and fully replaced weekly.
Hides
Every piggy habitat requires a hidey home. Providing multiple hides can help reduce stress, especially when more than one guinea pig lives in the enclosure.

Diet
Hay
Timothy hay is imperative to your piggy’s physical and mental health. Guinea pigs should always have unlimited hay available, and it should make up about 80% of their daily diet.

Pellets
Because guinea pigs cannot produce their own vitamin C, it is vital that they obtain this necessary nutrient through their diet, from pellets and fresh fruit and vegitables.
Pellet food for guinea pigs should list timothy hay as the main ingredient. A good, quality pellet is fortified with the essential vitamins and minerals their bodies need, especially stabilized Vitamin C.
Avoid mixes that contain seeds, nuts, or other fillers, and make sure there are no artificial colors.
Pellets should only make up around 5% of your cavy’s daily intake. Generally, a good rule of thumb is to provide each guinea pig around 1/8 cup of high-quality pellets daily.

Fresh Produce
Guinea pigs benefit from fresh vegetables, given in moderation, in their diet, which can help provide additional vitamin C and enrichment. For added nutrition and enrichment, alternate the types of greens you give. Greens that are high in oxalates, like spinach, parsley, and Swiss chard, should be given sparingly and less often.
You can find a full list of piggy-safe greens in our guinea pig snack and treat guide.
Treats
Who doesn’t love a little dessert? Guinea pigs are no exception, but even their treats should always be healthy (luckily, they love herbs as much as humans love sweets!).
When it comes to treats, here are some things to keep in mind:
- Fruits and sweeter vegetables should be limited and fed in moderation
- Herbs make great treats that can be added to hay or scattered for foraging
- Always look at the ingredient list when choosing treats. Ingredient lists should be short and contain real, recognizable foods. Bonus points if hay is the first ingredient listed.
Introduce new greens and treats slowly. Watch their stools. If you notice any sudden changes, it likely means something is upsetting their tummies.
Enrichment
A bored piggy is a sad piggy. Guinea pigs naturally spend much of their day foraging for food, exploring safe spaces, and chewing. Those instincts don’t disappear just because they live in a home rather than in the Andes Mountains. They still need enrichment toys that encourage those natural behaviors.
When shopping for guinea pig enrichment, look for items that allow them to chew, explore, hide, and forage.
Here are some piggy-approved types of enrichment items:
-
Hay-Based Toys: Hay balls, hay cubes, and woven grass toys are great enrichment because guinea pigs can chew, pull, and forage at the same time. These toys encourage natural foraging behavior and help keep teeth worn down. (Some, like our Seagrass Tent, can also double as hides.)

-
Wood Chew Toys: Make sure to choose untreated, pet-safe wood chews that are made specifically for small animals.
-
Foraging Toys allow you to hide small treats, pellets, or herbs so guinea pigs must search and work to get to them. This keeps your guinea pig mentally engaged and turns snack time into enrichment time. (Some of our foraging toys even come in edible boxes for extra fun!)

-
Tunnels and activity toys give guinea pigs places to explore and run through, which encourages exercise and helps prevent boredom.
-
Cardboard and paper toys like cardboard boxes or tubes and paper bags can also make great enrichment toys. Guinea pigs love to explore, hide, and chew cardboard, and these are easy, inexpensive enrichment options.
Grooming
Guinea pigs largely groom themselves, but they still need a little help from their humans to stay healthy and comfortable.
- Brushing varies based on your piggy’s fur length. They require occasional brushing to prevent tangles and mats. Be sure to watch out for any skin issues while brushing.
- Nail trimming is an important part of guinea pig grooming and should be done about once a month. If nails get too long, they can curl, catch on things, and cause foot problems, including bumblefoot. When trimming nails, watch out for the quick, which is the part where the blood vessels are. A flashlight can help you avoid cutting below the quick.

Unless your guinea pig is exceptionally messy, it is best to skip the bath. Because their fur is thick, it takes a long time for it to dry.
To learn more about caring for your cavy, check out our various guinea pig resources.
Chinchillas

Chinchillas are fast, athletic animals that love to jump, chew, and take dust baths, which means their housing and supplies are very specific. Starting with the right setup is extremely important.
Habitat
Chinchillas are natural-born climbers and jumpers; in a home environment, they need vertical space and ledges to mimic the rocky cliffs they navigate in the wild. Enclosures need to be both wide and tall.
The minimum recommendation for a single chinchilla is a cage that is at least 4 ft x 4 ft x 3 ft, but larger (especially taller) is better. Since they are social animals, it is best to house them in pairs; however, this necessitates an even more spacious enclosure.

Wire mesh cages provide airflow, but wire flooring should be avoided, or covered, as it can cause bumblefoot. Solid platform flooring gives chinchillas a safe surface to climb on and chew. Furthermore, verify that the enclosure is constructed from non-galvanized metal, as zinc exposure is toxic and harmful to chinchillas.
Bedding
Chinchillas have very sensitive skin, paws, tummies, and respiratory systems, so their bedding options are more limited than some other small pets. They are used to the dry air in the Andes. Moisture and dust are harmful to these little sweethearts.
Fleece liners are often marketed for chinchillas, but they can be risky if not anti-pill. Chinchillas love to chew on almost everything, and ingesting such materials can lead to serious digestive problems. Safe bedding choices for chinchillas are limited due to their sensitive systems. Aspen shavings are your best option.

Enrichment
An active chinchilla is a happy chinchilla! Chins need several types of enrichment items for both their physical and mental health. These include:
- Hides for security
- Chew toys to help wear down their continuously-growing teeth. As avid chewers, they actively munch on hay and even volcanic rocks in the wild!
- Exercise wheels to help them apply their natural running instincts. Wheels should be at least 16 inches in diameter and made of a solid surface so their feet can’t get caught in rungs.
- Platforms provide places to jump and play. Some toys, like our Hanging Mobile Habitat Platform Bundle, provide both a place to climb and yummy hay-based treats for chewing.

Diet
Hay
Chinchillas thrive on fiber, which means they depend heavily on timothy or orchard hay. Timothy hay is typically recommended as a staple and should be available all day, every day. Because their diets are so limited, a variety of hay types can help add enrichment.

Pellets
Pellets can provide supplemental nutrition but should only make up a small percentage of a chinchilla’s diet.
Choose high-quality pellets where timothy hay is the primary ingredient and avoid mixes containing seeds or colorful additives.

Fresh Produce and Treats
Chinchillas do not need fresh produce, and in many cases, it can cause severe digestive distress due to high water and sugar content. Small amounts may be offered sparingly as rare treats (e.g. dried herbs), never as a staple.
Grooming
Chinchillas are great at keeping themselves clean, thanks to dust baths! That’s right. They don’t bathe in water. In the wild, they bathe in volcanic ash. In your home, they should bathe in chin-safe, dust-free sand. This keeps the skin beneath their thick fur dry, helping prevent skin infections caused by too much moisture.
Make sure any sand you use is marked chinchilla safe. Pour 1-2 inches of the proper sand into a plastic container large enough for them to roll around in.
For more specifics on caring for your chinchillas, check out all our chin-specific blogs.

Hamsters
Hamsters may be tiny, but they are full of energy and personality. They love to burrow, explore, and run, so their setup should give them plenty of opportunities to stay active and engaged.
Habitat
Many hamster cages sold in stores are much too small to meet their needs. These cuties may be small, but they are mighty, especially when it comes to movement. Hamsters need plenty of space to explore, which is why experts recommend their habitat be a minimum of 800 square inches of floor space (i.e., width x depth). The more, the better!
Hamsters are big-time burrowers, therefore their enclosures should be deep enough to hold at least 6-10 inches of bedding to burrow.
If you’re choosing a hamster enclosure, here are some of our top suggestions:
- Purpose-built enclosures made from pet-safe materials
- Large glass tanks (aquariums) with a secure, well-ventilated mesh lid
Hamster cages to avoid include:
- Plastic hamster cages, which are usually too small and do not allow for adequate air flow.
- Metal cages are generally too small, not deep enough for sufficient bedding, plus the metal bars can injure your hamster’s teeth or feet
Bedding
Your enclosure should be deep enough to hold at least 6-10 inches of hamster-safe bedding for burrowing. You can mix various types of natural, absorbent, chemical-free bedding together for added enrichment.
Safe options include:
- Fluffy paper bedding
- Heat-treated aspen bedding
- Hemp hurd bedding

Soft paper bedding is a better option and still gives your hamster plenty of fluff to dig through.
Hides and Enrichment

Hamsters are natural diggers and foragers, as well as chewers, so enrichment items should play to these instincts. While they like to burrow underground, they still need an above-ground place to hide and help them feel safe. However, just because they are sold in pet stores does not mean they are safe.
Watch out for these types of hamster products:
- Log houses or bridges are a popular product for hamsters, but your pet’s little feet can easily get stuck between the logs. Using pet-grade moss or something similar to stuff crevices can help prevent painful accidents.
- Plastic tunnels or mazes do not provide adequate airflow and may be too small.
- Hamster balls are dangerous, stressful, and should never be used.

Exercise Wheels
In the wild, hamsters are long-distance runners. That natural running energy needs to come out, which is why a hamster wheel is a necessity.
Wheels are usually 10-12 inches in diameter and should be large enough for hamsters to run on without curving their backs. Wheels should have a solid surface, as their feet can get hung up in wheels with rungs.
Hamster saucers are an alternative to a wheel. While they can help your hamster get in daily miles, they are more likely to tip over.
Diet
Unlike rabbits, guinea pigs, and chinchillas, hamsters are omnivores, meaning they eat both plants and protein-based foods. Most of your hamster’s diet should come from a high-quality mix that includes pellets.
Hay is not essential for hamsters, but they do enjoy chewing on it. It can help wear down their teeth and can also be used as nesting material or as added enrichment.
Grooming
Hamsters instinctively groom themselves with sand, so placing a container filled with hamster-safe, dust-free sand gives them a place to groom themselves.
They generally do a good job of keeping their own nails down and their fur clean, but as with any pet, regularly check their skin and nails for any issues.
To learn more about caring for hamsters, refer to our hamster-related care guides.
A Final Reminder
Shopping for a small pet is more than just picking out a cage and food. Each pet has unique needs when it comes to space, diet, bedding, and enrichment. A good setup from the beginning is one of the best things you can do for your small pet.
By providing the correct supplies initially, you can enhance the quality of life for your pets and your family while simultaneously minimizing stress and preventing potential health issues.
Other Guides
- Buying Hay Online for your Pet and What to Look out for
- Bunny & Piggy Playtime Picks: 10 Toys your Pets can't Resist
- What is Timothy Hay? The Beginners Guide

